Hakone can only be described as magical. Two hours outside of Tokyo, we were oohing and aahing at every turn of the Hakone Tozan Railway, a miniature train that maneuvered down grassy, hydrangea-lined tracks through tiny tunnels, switchbacks, and little mountain villages.

The grassy tracks on the Hakone Tozan Railway.

We started our visit by checking into our traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan, Hakone Ginyu. Not really knowing what to expect, we were floored by the jaw-dropping views over Hakone, the peaceful sounds of trickling fountains, and the beautiful and simple architecture.

Hakone Ginyu lobby overlooking the mountains and valley.

After a welcome drink, we were led to our room where we would stay for the next 19 hours! All tatami rooms at the ryokan are equipped with a bedroom, dining area, indoor/outdoor shower, and terrace with private Japanese bath. As we settled into the hot bath and looked out at the pouring rain over the lush mountains and valley, we knew we had found paradise! Only five days into this trip, we were feeling incredibly grateful.

Relaxing in the Japanese bath in Zui Un, our tatami room at Hakone Ginyu. Our room name means "Beautiful Sky."

That evening, we were served a tasty eight course traditional kaiseki meal by the lovely hotel staff (the entire staff was lovely, patient, reserved, and painstakingly helpful!), as well as an enormous and filling breakfast the next morning (Western style for me, Japanese style for Stephen - whole fish anyone??).

In our traditional Japanese garb eating our incredible dinner!

Feeling relaxed, overfed, pruny, and happy, we decided to spend the day exploring Hakone. Again, we hopped on the railway and made our way up the mountain to the Hakone Open Air Museum. Like so many things we have encountered in Japan, we both agreed that the US needs a museum like this!

Primarily outdoors, the museum consists of sculptures strewn throughout gardens, perfectly manicured lawns, and a shady pond filled with koi and turtles. All of this with the mountains of Hakone in the background! The fusion of art and nature here is accomplished seamlessly. Click through the gallery here:

Wanting to explore for hours but also eager to see what else Hakone had to offer, we hopped back on the railway to venture further up the mountain. We had a yummy corn and chicken gyouza lunch at the Gyoza Center in Gora, but sadly, once we got on the cablecar from Gora headed all the way up the mountain, we found ourselves completely enveloped in clouds! While you can usually see the imposing Mt. Fuji on a clear day and also take a leisurely boat ride across Lake Ashinoko, our plans were foiled by fog. It was very cool to experience the white-out however, so we made the most of it and also made our way back to our ryokan. From there we packed up, bid farewell to the adorable staff, soaked in the views one last time and headed for the bullet train to Osaka - an experience in itself!

Corn Gyouza at the Gyoza Center in Gora.

We only stayed for one night, but Hakone got into our hearts and spirits and is simply unforgettable!

-Michelle