Primal Fear (Safari - Part I)

After an amazing week in Cape Town, we flew overnight to Nairobi and began our 4-day safari in and around Masai Mara National Park.  After a transfer on a very small single propeller plane (I cried the whole way), with views of the open plains and snaking Mara River, we were greeted by a group of smiling Maasai at the airstrip.

A warm Maasai welcome.

A warm Maasai welcome.

The lifeblood of the Masai Mara plains, the Mara River. 

The lifeblood of the Masai Mara plains, the Mara River. 

 We chose Gamewatchers Safaris, which runs a number of camps throughout Kenya, but we were drawn specifically to their Porini Camps - eco-conscious, intimate, and situated on private conservancies.  The conservancies and camps are located on leased land from the local Maasai community and aim to protect the animals' wildlife habitats.  Gamewatchers also works in close partnership with the Maasai to generate jobs and livelihoods (our guide/spotter Josphet and driver Tippa were from nearby villages).  The camps leave no footprint, meaning that they could be packed up in a few hours without leaving a trace.  All costs of running the conservancies are paid from the income received from guests staying at the camps.

We decided on Porini Mara camp, situated within the Ol Kinyei Conservancy.  The camp has six guest tents, and the animals can roam freely throughout the camp as they please.  The Maasai stand guard with nothing more than a stick and a lot of confidence!  The sounds we heard at night were truly amazing – grunting buffalo, barking zebra, a grumpy hippo (Simon), whimpering hyenas and a growling lioness.  Poor Stephen was so terrified every night that he barely slept.  He would stand in the middle of the tent with a whistle around his neck while I slept like a baby!

Our tent at the edge of the Porini Mara Camp near a small river.  Our area was the most active during the night!  

Our tent at the edge of the Porini Mara Camp near a small river.  Our area was the most active during the night!  

Tent interior, Porini Mara Camp.

Tent interior, Porini Mara Camp.

 When we arrived at camp, we were told that we would be sharing our safari jeep with three other people – Laura, also from the US, and Elom and Justyna, a couple living in London.  We feel so lucky because we could not have asked for better people to spend every day with on safari!  Plus, Justyna is a professional photographer and was so helpful in helping me learn some shooting basics on my new camera.  We loved our group and our guides, which made our experience that much more amazing.

With no expectations for our trip, we headed out in the jeep to explore the 18,700 acres of the Ol Kinyei Conservancy.  Immediately, we were up close and personal with the animals.  Check out the photos from our first two days on safari below!  There will be more to come in Part II on Tuesday!

-Michelle

 

Day 1: Ol Kinyei Conservancy

Our first of thousands of wildebeest sightings.

Our first of thousands of wildebeest sightings.

We came across this abandoned baby bushbuck, and everyone in the jeep wanted to get out to save it.  Our guide stressed the importance of letting the animals carry on naturally, even if it means ensuring that this baby will be dinner for anothe…

We came across this abandoned baby bushbuck, and everyone in the jeep wanted to get out to save it.  Our guide stressed the importance of letting the animals carry on naturally, even if it means ensuring that this baby will be dinner for another animal. :(

Topi sighting.  Looks like they are wearing blue jeans!

Topi sighting.  Looks like they are wearing blue jeans!

A single giraffe strutting across the plain.  Gorgeous!

A single giraffe strutting across the plain.  Gorgeous!

Majestic!

Majestic!

We found this fresh wildebeest carcass and knew that the predator couldn't be far away...

We found this fresh wildebeest carcass and knew that the predator couldn't be far away...

Our first lion sighting - a beautiful male.  He was tired after a filling meal and mating session (the lioness was hiding behind him in the bushes).

Our first lion sighting - a beautiful male.  He was tired after a filling meal and mating session (the lioness was hiding behind him in the bushes).

Up close and personal.

Up close and personal.

Go away humans!

Go away humans!

The open plains covered with wildebeest.  And the occasional warthog.

The open plains covered with wildebeest.  And the occasional warthog.

Pumba!

Pumba!

A lone elephant at dusk.  

A lone elephant at dusk.  

Before it got dark, we came across a pride of lions enjoying their last moments of rest before their evening kill.  

Before it got dark, we came across a pride of lions enjoying their last moments of rest before their evening kill.  

Yawn...

Yawn...

Not a face I was excited to see.

Not a face I was excited to see.

Not far from the ladies, this male lion was strutting his stuff.  Truly the king!

Not far from the ladies, this male lion was strutting his stuff.  Truly the king!

Male lion roaring to call his pride for hunt
With special red lights, we were able to watch this pride devour a wildebeest that night.  

With special red lights, we were able to watch this pride devour a wildebeest that night.  

 

Day 2: Ol Kinyei Conservancy and Mara Naboisho Conservancy

Up early for a beautiful sunrise and morning game drive.

Up early for a beautiful sunrise and morning game drive.

Hello wildebeests!

Hello wildebeests!

A monkey in one of the trees near camp.

A monkey in one of the trees near camp.

On our way to a neighboring conservancy, we were able to see our own mini wildebeest migration.  One of my bucket list items is to witness the Great Migration across the Mara River, but having our own private viewing definitely satisfied this f…

On our way to a neighboring conservancy, we were able to see our own mini wildebeest migration.  One of my bucket list items is to witness the Great Migration across the Mara River, but having our own private viewing definitely satisfied this for me!

Basically how we spent everyday.  The ladies shot while the men stayed out of the way.

Basically how we spent everyday.  The ladies shot while the men stayed out of the way.

Zebra sighting (this is for Nana - Stephen's grandma's favorite).

Zebra sighting (this is for Nana - Stephen's grandma's favorite).

Breakfast is served - we came across two males sharing the remnants of a wildebeest.  

Breakfast is served - we came across two males sharing the remnants of a wildebeest.  

Just making sure nothing is wasted...

Just making sure nothing is wasted...

See bottom left for the unwanted wildebeest stomach (only eaten during tough times)

See bottom left for the unwanted wildebeest stomach (only eaten during tough times)

Really getting in there...

Really getting in there...

Lip-smacking good!

Lip-smacking good!

Spotted!  Cheetahs travel alone and this one was no exception.  She was constantly looking over her shoulder for other predators as well as possible prey.

Spotted!  Cheetahs travel alone and this one was no exception.  She was constantly looking over her shoulder for other predators as well as possible prey.

On alert.

On alert.

Another beautiful giraffe walking across the plains.

Another beautiful giraffe walking across the plains.

A skull in a tree - ominous!

A skull in a tree - ominous!

Hippos spend all day in the water sleeping, and come up for air every few minutes.  As we would come to find out, they are nocturnal and love to splash around in the water at night.  Simon, the resident hippo at Ol Kinyei Conservancy, live…

Hippos spend all day in the water sleeping, and come up for air every few minutes.  As we would come to find out, they are nocturnal and love to splash around in the water at night.  Simon, the resident hippo at Ol Kinyei Conservancy, lived right next to our tent!

Our first elephant herd.  Big, small, young and old.  Amazing!

Our first elephant herd.  Big, small, young and old.  Amazing!

Are two heads better than one (elephant skull)?

Are two heads better than one (elephant skull)?

Our group with Tippa, our incredible driver.  I'm not sure he knew how to say anything besides Hakuna Matata, but it still cracked us up every time.

Our group with Tippa, our incredible driver.  I'm not sure he knew how to say anything besides Hakuna Matata, but it still cracked us up every time.