I've always wanted to visit Varanasi, but I never knew why. A crowded, dying city along the banks of a polluted river. Doesn't sound too fun. Actually, on second thought, that sounds a lot like my hometown Cleveland.

As we were planning our trip (and by we, I mean Michelle), we went back and forth on whether or not to visit Varanasi. Aside from a few photos and passing stories, I didn't know anything about the city. But it always had a certain allure, at least to crazy people like me. So I refused to budge and we went, traveling towards the holy Ganges and all its spiritual splendor.

Varanasi, aka Benares or Kashi, is the oldest city in India. It lies on the banks of the Ganges River, where bathing, dancing, and cremations take place all at once, every time of day. It is known as the "Holy City of India", and simply washing in the river is supposed to end your run of reincarnations. Not surprisingly, flocks of Indians make pilgrimage to this city, many of which are already deceased. It is quite a sight, and amidst the chaos of cow shit, street vendors, and beeping rickshaws, the city lays largely unchanged - actually decaying - with a millennia of human ashes and dead flowers floating down the holy Ganges.

We stayed for two nights at Aashray Homestay (highly recommended), with Mr. and Mrs. Kapur.  They converted their home into a 2-room guesthouse and welcomed us into their lives with open arms.  They became like our Indian parents.  Th… — We stayed for two nights at Aashray Homestay (highly recommended), with Mr. and Mrs. Kapur. They converted their home into a 2-room guesthouse and welcomed us into their lives with open arms. They became like our Indian parents. This is Mrs. Kapur, who sat next to Michelle every meal, spooning her more and more food (not that Michelle needs any encouragement).

On our first night, we headed to the river, weaving our way through all the craziness.

There are dozens of Ghats along the Ganges (Ghats are sections of steps that lead down to the river).  This is the main cremation Ghat, where bereaved families come to wash their dead in the river, burn them, and then throw the ashes into the r… — There are dozens of Ghats along the Ganges (Ghats are sections of steps that lead down to the river). This is the main cremation Ghat, where bereaved families come to wash their dead in the river, burn them, and then throw the ashes into the rocky waters.

A little further down the river, there is a daily celebration to honor the river.

A series of six men stand on pillars, dancing and playing the conch for 45 minutes as thousands of visitors look on.

Morning has broken.  We arrived at the Ganges at 6am, with our Indian dad (Mr. Kapur) as the tour guide. — Morning has broken. We arrived at the Ganges at 6am, with our Indian dad (Mr. Kapur) as the tour guide.

India continues to astound us with the color range.  It is truly breathtaking. — India continues to astound us with the color range. It is truly breathtaking.

The boatman, taking us down the Ganges at 6am.

Visitors and locals bathing in the river to purify themselves.

After awhile, I gave the rowboat a whirl.  FYI, I rowed in circles for five minutes (this is not the first time I've rowed in circles). — After awhile, I gave the rowboat a whirl. FYI, I rowed in circles for five minutes (this is not the first time I've rowed in circles).

A nearby hotel drying their bedsheets from the river water.  And let me clarify if it is not already apparent, the river is very very dirty and brown.  Extremely happy we didn't stay at that hotel... — A nearby hotel drying their bedsheets from the river water. And let me clarify if it is not already apparent, the river is very very dirty and brown. Extremely happy we didn't stay at that hotel...

A grieving pair standing over a dying fire.

After rowing down the Ganges, we ventured through the narrow streets of the old city.

One of the underground alleys that zigzag through the old city.

All in all, visiting Varanasi was an amazing experience. And I highly recommend anyone traveling to India to suck it up, and spend two days in the Holy City to witness firsthand this grand spectacle of life.

- Stephen