Don't Worry, Be Hampi

After a whirlwind two-and-a-half week tour of northern India, we jumped on an overnight train to southern India via Bangalore to Hampi, a dusty laid-back village unlike anyplace we'd ever been. Arid but lush, jam-packed with ruins, and most noticeably covered with giant boulders, Hampi seems positively prehistoric.  A friend poignantly described it as "The Flintstones." 

Our compartment on the overnight train to Hampi.  We got extremely lucky and were upgraded to the First Class A/C Car PLUS we got our own room with a lockable door.  This is rare, and yes folks, this is as good as it gets.  Riding trains in India is a rite of passage of sorts - the locals almost exclusively travel via train over long distances; trains are often delayed, they are not very clean but nothing in India is very clean, vendors yell up and down the aisles selling food, water, chips, and of course, masala chai. It's an experience and I highly recommend it!     

Hampi has a river running through it, and the majority of the ruins are on one side of it.  However, most acceptable hotels/guesthouses are on the opposite side, necessitating a twice-daily river crossing to visit the ruins.  We first arrived at the river to make the crossing to our hotel, and we knew we were in for an interesting few days.   

Boat "dock" in Hampi.  You can see some of the boulders already that are strewn all over the village.

Women doing laundry near the river crossing.

In addition to a boat, you can ride across the river in a coracle, paddled by one of these guys.

We also met Lakshmi, the resident elephant who gets a bath in the river every morning.  More on her later...

We spent two days visiting the ruins - I'd recommend three to be able to see everything.  The ruins are the remnants of the powerful Hindu Vijayanagara Empire, who were defeated by the relentless Muslim, or Mughal, invaders in 1565.  The Mughals systematically destroyed the city, as they did many parts of the Indian subcontinent.  

Below are our photos from our time in Hampi, including the ruins, the head-scratching landscape, and the lovable trained elephant Lakshmi who gives blessings for only 10 rupees!

Bali meets Boulders.

At Virupaksha Temple, built in the 7th century.

Virupaksha Temple Complex in Hampi.

Four holy men walk into a bar...

We met Lakshmi again, this time while she was working at Virupaksha Temple.  She is beautiful (and well-trained). The deal is you hold out 10 rupees, she takes it, gives it to her trainer, and then puts her trunk on your head to bless you.  It's hokey but really cute.  

Taking the money.

Blessed!

Blessed by a goddess.

Walk like an Egyptian...or Indian.

One of the intricate ceilings at Virupaksha Temple.

Virupaksha Temple.

We left Virupaksha Temple and strolled down Hampi Bazaar, an old street that was once the center of a thriving market.  

We met this woman along Hampi Bazaar.  She lost her husband and her son a few years ago.

Why did the chicken cross the road?

Ruins at Matanga Hill in Hampi.  Look at those crazy boulders!

The Monolith Bull sculpture at Matanga Hill.

Looking back towards Virupaksha Temple from Matanga Hill.

Matanga Hill.

Matanga Hill.

Achyuta Rayas Temple, a temple dedicated to the Lord Vishnu, built in the 1500s.

Achyuta Rayas Temple in Hampi.  This temple is more off-the-beaten-path in Hampi, and we were the only people there!  It was a nice change.

Carved pillars at Achyuta Rayas Temple.

Next to the temple is Courtesans Street, also known as Sule Bazaar or Prostitute's Market.  Our guide told us that women would display themselves along the pillared structure, and wealthy men would choose women to "hire."

Across from Prostitute's Market is Pushkarani, which our guide told us was a purification tank.  Wonder why...

After Day 1 of sightseeing, we decided to try out a coracle ride back over the river.  No fumes and no wait (the boats don't leave until there are enough passengers, meaning you can wait for 1 minute or an hour).  It was great!

A music shop on the hotel side of the river.  I considered brushing up on my didgeridoo skills but didn't have time.

Beautiful landscape on the way back to our hotel.

Rice fields of Hampi.

On Day 2, we walked the long dusty road to the Vittala Temple Complex, on the far east edge of Hampi.

Beautiful scenery along the road.

Vittala Temple Complex.

The Vittala Temple complex houses the famous Stone Car.  We didn't measure exactly how far Stephen pushed the car, but if I had to guess, it didn't budge.

As in most places in India, there is always a negotiation for transportation.  Here, Stephen negotiates with a rickshaw driver for a ride around Hampi.

We loved our rickshaw driver Bassava.  Just a sweet guy in a sea of scammers.

Bassava took us to explore the Zenana Enclosure, which encompasses a few important sites in Hampi.  This one is called Lotus Mahal, and is one of the only well-preserved structures in Hampi despite the destruction of the city by the Mughal invaders of the 1500s.  The area was used by women in the royal family as a socializing area.

Lotus Mahal.

Giant watch tower at the Zenana Enclosure in Hampi.

While in Zenana Enclosure, I had a craving for fresh coconut and mentioned it to Stephen.  Maybe I saw a stray shell which subliminally nudged me, but either way, we were shocked to turn a corner and see this fresh coconut vendor!  Of course, we couldn't NOT get some!

Elephant Stables at Zenana Enclosure.  

Cutie saying "hi" at Zenana Enclosure.

When leaving Zenana Enclosure, we saw this sight when walking towards Bassava's rickshaw.  This shot actually captures a lot about India in a way that can't really be described.

As we walked back to the river crossing, we explored the small village on the banks.  I'm not sure seeing cows living among the streets is something that will get old.

-Michelle