New Zealand is pretty much made for hiking, or tramping as the locals call it. The ever-changing landscape is breathtaking, and the fact that there are no predators at all - no bears, no mountain lions, no wolves, no snakes - makes exploring the natural beauty on foot that much more enjoyable. The air is fresh, the trails are well trodden, and the country just has its outdoorsy shit together, for lack of a better term.

If you travel to New Zealand and enjoy hiking, check out the nine Great Walks. The Great Walks are very well-maintained, multi-day tracks, with huts and/or campsites that need to be reserved through the Department of Conservation (DOC). Although the accommodation is extremely basic, with dorm-style bunk beds, toilets, and sinks, the huts and campsites typically book up months in advance, especially during the summer high season.

We had read very convincing things about the Routeburn Track, covering 32 kilometers and typically completed over three days. There are four possible huts along the track that must be booked in advance during high season, but the middle two (Routeburn Falls and Lake Mackenzie) are really the only ones worth booking; they are spaced the most advantageously along the trail resulting in three fairly equal walking days. The two outer huts (Routeburn Flats and Lake Howden) tend to be available more often due to their close proximity to the parking lots.

Unfortunately for us, or fortunately as we will explain below, we were only able to book a night at the first hut last minute (Routeburn Flats hut), just under 2 hours into the trail. If we really wanted to experience the real Routeburn Track, we'd somehow have to do it in one day.

So we set out from the Catlins and had a long scenic drive to the start of the track.

Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown, along the way to the start of the Routeburn Track.

In Glenorchy, the closest town to the start of the Routeburn Track.

We headed out from the parking lot at the Routeburn Shelter and headed onto the track. Almost immediately, we came across Sugarloaf Stream, with gorgeous turquoise rapids rushing by.

The trail meanders through a thick beech forest...

confetti leaves routeburn track new zealand

...and over a few wobbly swing bridges.

swing bridge routeburn track new zealand

We arrived at the DOC hut just as the sun was setting over the mountains. It had been a long day driving, coupled with a two hour hike that began at 6pm. We just wanted to get to sleep early in order to conquer as much of the trail as possible the next day.

Little did we know, it gets incredibly cold at night and every other hiker had carried in a sleeping bag and cooking equipment. We realized quickly that we were pretty unprepared for a multi-day hike! Luckily the park ranger, after learning we would be without sleeping bags, offered us an extra blanket and sleeping bag that he uses occasionally (only in New Zealand). I'm glad he did too, because at night it turned FREEZING.

Early the next morning we set out for Conical Hill, which is the steepest point along the track with arguably the best views. Basically, it is as far as we could hike in one day and still make it back to our car - approximately 20 kilometers (12 miles) up steep and winding hills. The weather was perfect with barely a cloud in the sky. Pretty quickly, we caught up to another couple on the track and spent the next few hours walking with them until it was time for us to turn back.

Stopping along the Routeburn Track to admire the views.

Humboldt Mountains, as seen from the Routeburn Track.

A small waterfall along the way.  We filled up water at these falls, but also used a purifying UV pen just in case! — A small waterfall along the way. We filled up water at these falls, but also used a purifying UV pen just in case!

The Routeburn Track was turning out to be pretty awesome. Not only was it a beautiful day, but the track took us through valleys, along rivers and waterfalls, and provided incredible views of two national parks (Fiordland and Mount Aspiring) and all the way out to the Tasman Sea. One of our favorite spots was Harris Saddle, right on the border of the two parks with stunning Lake Harris below.

Harris Saddle and Lake Harris — Harris Saddle and Lake Harris

Couldn't get enough of the view from Harris Saddle.

harris saddle take 2 routeburn track new zealand

Continuing our walk around Harris Saddle.

We felt pretty close to heaven here. The scenery was magical!

By the time we got to the base of Conical Hill, the highest point on the track, I was pretty sweaty and exhausted. I glanced up at the relentless trail and thought helplessly about the hours it would take to retrace our steps from both earlier today and yesterday. I almost sat this last climb out, but when I thought about the amazing scenery we'd already seen that day, plus knowing that we only had one day to experience the Routeburn Track, I was motivated to keep on trucking. The push was definitely worth it!

At the top of Conical Hill.  It was a short but steep climb and totally worth the view! — At the top of Conical Hill. It was a short but steep climb and totally worth the view!

The gorgeous Hollyford Mountains as seen from Conical Hill.

A Japanese photographer we met along the trail.

Taking a nap at Conical Hill before our 13 kilometer hike back to the start of the trail.  Eeks! — Taking a nap at Conical Hill before our 13 kilometer hike back to the start of the trail. Eeks!

Stephen taking in the views from the top of the world one last time. We earned it!

overlooking conical hill and hollyford valley routeburn track new zealand

And the journey back to the start begins...

down from conical hill routeburn track new zealand

We came across this little symbol on our way out of the track. Sums up how we felt about the Routeburn Track!

Although it is recommended to complete the Routeburn Track in 3 days, we recommend considering doing a (large) portion of the hike as a day trip if you are in good shape and an experienced hiker. Here are a few reasons why:

1. You won't need to carry a lot of equipment such as a sleeping bag, stove, three days worth of food, etc.

2. The Routeburn Track is a one-way walk, meaning you start and end in different places, requiring a six hour drive between the end points! After three days of hiking and being dirty, the thought of sitting on a bus for 6+ hours to get back to your car is not ideal. There are also car relocation options, but those are pricey (maybe worth it though!).

3. The walk took a long time (a total of 11 hours for us including the walking we did on the first day), but it was incredibly rewarding and is definitely doable! Who doesn't love a good challenge?

We should also mention that it is possible to enter the Routeburn Track near the town of Te Anau. There are a bunch of day hikes starting from that end (Key Summit and Earland Falls come to mind) that come highly recommended, however we are partial to the route we took.

Whether we experienced the Routeburn Track the best way is up for debate, but we were totally satisfied. Plus I was pretty happy to take a hot shower and climb into bed on the second night rather than having to share a room with 40 other snoring smelly hikers! To each his own.

-Michelle