Cross My Heart

Since I'm the resident hiking expert, Michelle thought this would be a good post for me to guest write.  And I say "guest write" because let's be honest, like most things in our lives, Michelle does most of the work--blog included.  So before I begin to wax poetically about this awesome hike, and as our trip winds down, I just wanted to do a quick shoutout to my wife and love, Michelle, for making this trip and blog a magical reality.

As for the beauty of hiking, if you haven't heard my philosophical rants, you might want to check out this post about Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you've read it, or just aren't interested, the photos below of the Tongariro Crossing hike do a pretty damn good job summing it up.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of the most well-known day hikes in the world (and was recently named a World Heritage site).  It is a stunning 20km hike that leads trekkers up steep volcanic terrain, into and out of a series of craters, past sparkling emerald and blue lakes, and back down the opposite side of the volcano.  There are no fresh water supplies on the trail, and the weather can change in an instant (winter clothes needed - flash ice storms are common).  But it is a truly amazing hike.

THE DAY

Our long hike began at 6am, when we got picked up in a van and transported to the Mangatepopo carpark (most people choose to use a transportation service because the trek starts and ends at different points).  At the onset, it was very cold.  Or at least colder than we had been used to in the summer months of New Zealand.

Jacket, check.  Gloves, check.  Water bottle, check.  Camera, check.

During the hike, we were constantly surrounded by drastically different terrains looming in the distance: snow-capped peaks, volcanoes, red rock cliffs, sulfurous hills. 

Sometimes we felt like we were hiking on Mars.

The first three hours alternates between flat and easy, or straight uphill.  And as we got closer and closer to the peak of the Crossing trail, we also got closer to this highly active volcano (and the signs didn't let us forget it).

After all this talk about cold weather and flash ice storms, we somehow lucked out with a perfectly sunny day. 

The Tongariro hike is a mountain crossing, so there is no traditional peak or peak view.  You actually hike over a series of different, rather stunning, peaks.  But below is Michelle at one of the highest points of the day, looking out over a large crater.

The next few photos look back, around, and across the volcanic valleys of the crossing.  

That is Mt. Doom for any Lord of the Rings fans (Mt. Ngaurahoe in real life)!

Looking back over the ridge to Mt. Ngaurahoe.

Stunning Red Crater.

Up until this point, I thought the hike was very good, but I wasn't sure what all the craze was about.  That changed when we started hiking downhill, and I saw the Emerald Lakes...

One of the sulfurous Emerald Lakes to the right, and the Blue Lake, further along the path, to the left.

Walking down this hill, covered in volcanic scree, isn't easy.  Everyone slips and slides the whole way down.

These lakes against the black volcanic terrain were like oases in a desert.  

The Emerald Lakes are indescribably beautiful, and even the photos don't do them justice (they never do).  But just to create a complete sensory experience (and hopefully not ruin the visual beauty), each of these beautiful sulfur lakes SMELLS LIKE ROTTEN EGGS.

After sitting and staring at the lakes for longer than we should have, we continued the trek as we were only a little over halfway done with the hike at this point.  

Gorgeous view looking back at the valley we just crossed.

A quick stop at the Blue Lake.

You are constantly reminded that you are in an "Active Volcanic Hazard Zone"

We were sad to leave the beauty of the sulfur lakes, but we had a schedule to keep.  The bus was picking us up in a few hours, and if we missed the bus, we'd have to hitchhike back to town.  So we pressed on, and started the final two hour descent.

Okay.  We get it.  It's a volcanic zone

After seven plus hours, we arrived at the Ketetahi carpark with sore knees and full eyes.  It was a perfect day--amazing weather, great workout, great food (Michelle packed a healthy lunch and a million snacks).  

I highly recommend this hike for anyone visiting New Zealand.  I will stop short of saying it is a MUST, but if you like hiking, I think you need to do this hike sometime in your life.  In fact, it's easy to see why it's one of the most popular day hikes in the world--challenging but not too challenging, well-maintained path, good signage, unique terrain, and most of all, stunning scenery!  All in all, it was a Top 10 activity for us in New Zealand.

-Stephen